I Reviewed Restaurants for 12 Years. They’ve Changed, and Not for the Better.

In his last essay as a restaurant critic, Pete Wells reflects on a dining world of touch screens and reservation apps, where it’s getting hard to find the human touch.

Now restaurants hardly ever pay someone to pick up the phone, if they have one; few newer places bother getting a number because so few calls come in. Eulalie, in TriBeCa, is one of the few that still takes reservations over the phone, a quirk so rare that it seems like a willfully perverse exercise in historical re-enactment. (Even the taverns at Colonial Williamsburg are on OpenTable.)