May & June 2024

Chip and I are stunned to glance at our calendar and realize it has been a year since we first sat in this new space and tried to see how the shape and energy would unfold. A year! And, of course, it seems like yesterday that the wonderful Simone was still just so. And now that is 2 years. Lucky are we to have the great opportunities we are experiencing with all of you. Guests who become the very fiber and spirit of each space we inhabit, and guests from all of our restaurants past continue to come and relax and enjoy, we are filled to the brim. All of our experiences have become the Dacquoise of what we strive to be in hospitality.

Chip just loves that kitchen. And he loves being in Tribeca. The neighborhood has embraced us and is allowing us to hopefully not only to fill their stomachs, but also to weave our joy of the lifestyle we have wrapped our arms around into their experience with us each time they come.

Chinatown Fish monger
staff

 

I cannot help but turn my thoughts this time of year to our first romantic adventure in the chaos we call owning a restaurant. The Outer Banks of North Carolina seemed such a dreamy and breezy notion. Fisherman showing up at the kitchen door with the most extraordinary catch, straight off the boat to us. Produce and eggs from Joe D., a former High School teacher turned farmer in retirement, talented young cooks who grew up in kitchens, standing on stools to do the dishes. Everyone who lives here works hard for the season to enjoy the peace of the off season. And peaceful it was. Mother Nature gave us a good dose of who ruled when hurricanes roared up the coast. The wildness of them, wind and waves whipped up, though scary, also exhilarating. Winters were a struggle and when April and May peeked out of hibernation the whole Island and those gearing up to welcome visitors were electrified with the anticipation of what is Summer. As we slow down a bit here in the City, I think of them and that special buzz, that joy of sand and surf, John’s roadside stand with crispy fish sandwiches, surfers double parked on the only oceanfront road, brazenly stripping down to put on wetsuits to run run to the waves beckoning.

And now, here in Tribeca, those guests who are really friends, still come to us. The kids who worked for us now are parents themselves, own their own restaurants, partners in law firms, doctors in Brooklyn. Goodness.

 

Our friends at Spruce Ridge Farms in Old Chatham, New York, are in full swing. They drop off their treasure boxes to Chip and then he loses sleep thinking of dishes he can create. Rhubarb saw double duty as a Tart Fine for dessert and then pickled for tossing in a composed salad. Though fleeting, the strawberries were so sweet. Mixed lettuces became a version of a Greek Salad with lemon vinaigrette. And, we cannot say enough about the eggs…chicken, guinea hen, duck and turkey!! Chip made the cake for her highness, Coconut, using a mix of all and the color and depth of richness was outrageous. Not to mention the ever requested Savory Tart with Sunnyside up egg.

Softshells from the Outer Banks appeared for the perfect organic month. Velvets. Delicious. Manicor makes a wine that is Pinot Blanc forward, with Chardonnay playing sidekick, so so good as a pairing. Also a Poniente Amontillado Sherry.


Wild Salmon just landed for our menu from Washington State. Tiny delicate local Haricots Verts with onion and almonds, balanced by fresh cucumbers both hot and cold. Rhone blends, white, Grenache Blanc leading makes the Salmon sing. Vinegar basted Chicken soon to come, reminding us all of childhood barbeques and picnics. Cool and delicate reds from Corsica are very easy to bottom up.
Rose Rose and more Roses in the glasses. Alternative Sparking from just everywhere…Pepe Raventos in Spain, pink and white bubbles from Jura and Savoie, Chenin from Loire.

Rabbit ravioli, tender little teenage carrots and decadent carrot puree, thank you 2019 Gini Soave Riserva.

 

Chinatown Fish monger
staff
Chef Chip Smith

You can feel the city releasing a great sigh of “let’s play outside” as they pack their bags and head out to shore and countrysides. I can only imagine the sleepy afternoons of reading a book and falling asleep in a hammock or under the beach umbrella, those warm sun kissed breezes calming the spirit of the rest of the year focused on go go go! Then heading off to grab lobster rolls and soft serve ice cream. Or spread a blanket on a lawn for the many outdoor musical concerts. I already mentioned Rose?!?

My friend, John, spends his beautiful summers on Squirrel Island, off the coast of Maine. Like so many of our people around us, he is a bon vivant, adores hosting his friends, cooking, pulling wines out of the cellar. He sent me this picture after a rain shower and I share it with you, along with some of his dining and drinking thoughts. Roast Chicken, sugar snaps and mint. Roasted Shitakes and Chestnut mushrooms. He thought of two beauties to splash in the waiting glasses…Michel Gros 2005 Chambolle-Musigny and Routets 2014 Pouilly-Fuisse Birbettes…not too shabby, right? And, of course, some fromage.

 

Chip and and I will not be taking any long vacation this first summer at Eulalie, so if you are like us and enjoy the lazy days of a quieter New York, come see us. I always love the dining room during a lull from what is high season. It holds a special charm and ease. Like a mini vacation without the stress of travel. We can share a glass of something cold and yummy.

So, Happy Summer to all of you. May the weaving of your bicycles down a deserted road, sandwiched between fields of wildflowers, leave you rested and fill your spirits with unadulterated “happy!” No matter where the travels take you, soak it all up, share with us your adventures when you return. Know that we are here, in Tribeca, anticipating your return, and looking forward to taking care of you.

–Chip and Tina
Eulalie
239 West Broadway 646-476-2380